Step by Step Instructions for Creating a Fake ID – Copy and Modify Your Card Part 1
In this Instructable, I’ll show you the best way to essentially make a fake id or other type of card. I’ll also work out a way to change this card for any curious purposes.
Mind you, I’m talking about curiosity – it’s not really misrepresentation or other crimes.
Stage 1: Required Items
For this task you will need the attached things:
ID Cards/Any Cards – Take out your old Joe Schmoe, INC. ID card, library card, or anything you think needs a newer copy.
Photoshop – or something like that – I’ll be using Photoshop though, so it’s clearer if you use that too.
Scanner – good quality if you can
Printer – good quality too
Laminator – when I use
Teslin paper, which type can be accessed in more detail – available from several sites. I recommend idgodvip.com as it is the main fake id websites I can find that sells the ones I use here. They range from $120 for one ID to $60 for a bunch of IDs. Be sure to choose the correct type for your printer, whether inkjet or laser. Artisyn on paper should be great or better, but I’ve never tried it.
Butterfly Laminated Bags – Again, lots of places to look. Assuming you buy from PoisonID, they come with teslin paper. Anyway, if you think your card should be magstripe readable, you’ll have to buy it from a site that sells 10 million packs (PoisonID is 7 million – close, but probably won’t work with magstripe encoders).
Ruler, scalpel blade or scissors or both, sandpaper
Optional:
3D Image Overlay – Accessible from PoisonID and many different destinations. Give it some extra energy. Still, they stick, so it’s a real pain to apply them without smearing.
Attractive strip encoder – very expensive in most cases. I’ll find one on ebay and try to get it for under $150. Good luck.
Hair curlers/regular irons/straighteners – If you have a 3D image on your copied ID, use one of these to process it.
Stage 2: Preparing the Cards
The main thing we’re going to do is make the format from the scanning fake id you need. If a card contains a multi-dimensional image, we end up making it unusable until a copy is made. This is to ensure that you can get decent output. Remember that the nature of the layout you make can represent a defining moment for this card.
First, take out the id card fake you want to copy. In this demo, I’ll show the most common way of replicating “Joe Schmoe Inc.”. Company ID.
If the old card is worn, take a cloth and try to remove any sticky buildup from the surface. Again, if your card has a visualization, it needs to be removed. To do this, do the following:
Take out the iron/curler/straightener/multipurpose strength plane.
Let it warm up, then gently begin to apply it to one of the edges of the card. Make sure you don’t leave the iron on the card for long periods of time – use quick movements to drag the iron away from you from the edge of the card and turn it on and off quickly. This prevents the card from liquefying or creating air bubbles that could damage the id card fake card.
Glue the iron to the card until you can lift the top overlay. Depending on the kind of card, it can contain most text, and can try to contain photos. If the base design fails, relax as any damage can be easily repaired in Photoshop.
Stage 3: Scan the Card
check card
Throw a new, 3D image-free card into the scanner scanning fake id. If it has any quality settings, make sure to set them as much as possible. Fire it up, and if you’re lucky, you should get a luxury scannable fake id.
No doubt you will be left with a lot of text, which we will replace in the next stage to improve quality.